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Один из немногих дебютантов последних лет, что меня радует — это Стефано Галличи в Ann Demeulemeester. Дизайнер чувствует, когда лук надо «завершить», не надругается над архивами, а тонко их перерабатывает (тут, допустим, ряд деталей из fw’2005) и виртуозно работает с многослойностью. А еще, давно не видела такого красивого черного во всех смыслах.



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Один из немногих дебютантов последних лет, что меня радует — это Стефано Галличи в Ann Demeulemeester. Дизайнер чувствует, когда лук надо «завершить», не надругается над архивами, а тонко их перерабатывает (тут, допустим, ряд деталей из fw’2005) и виртуозно работает с многослойностью. А еще, давно не видела такого красивого черного во всех смыслах.

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Right now the digital security needs of Russians and Ukrainians are very different, and they lead to very different caveats about how to mitigate the risks associated with using Telegram. For Ukrainians in Ukraine, whose physical safety is at risk because they are in a war zone, digital security is probably not their highest priority. They may value access to news and communication with their loved ones over making sure that all of their communications are encrypted in such a manner that they are indecipherable to Telegram, its employees, or governments with court orders. Sebi said data, emails and other documents are being retrieved from the seized devices and detailed investigation is in progress. Telegram has become more interventionist over time, and has steadily increased its efforts to shut down these accounts. But this has also meant that the company has also engaged with lawmakers more generally, although it maintains that it doesn’t do so willingly. For instance, in September 2021, Telegram reportedly blocked a chat bot in support of (Putin critic) Alexei Navalny during Russia’s most recent parliamentary elections. Pavel Durov was quoted at the time saying that the company was obliged to follow a “legitimate” law of the land. He added that as Apple and Google both follow the law, to violate it would give both platforms a reason to boot the messenger from its stores. Soloviev also promoted the channel in a post he shared on his own Telegram, which has 580,000 followers. The post recommended his viewers subscribe to "War on Fakes" in a time of fake news. The gold standard of encryption, known as end-to-end encryption, where only the sender and person who receives the message are able to see it, is available on Telegram only when the Secret Chat function is enabled. Voice and video calls are also completely encrypted.
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