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Poverty chic или почему мы не рвём платье Ralph Lauren, но радостно покупаем уже рваное Balenciaga?

Богатство не должно выглядеть богатым. Наоборот, оно должно быть скрытым, абсурдным и доступным только тем, кто в курсе. Именно поэтому сейчас в моде дорогая одежда, которая выглядит рваной и поношенной.

Но появилась новая проблема: такие вещи перестали быть частью авангардного языка. Рваная футболка за тысячу долларов — это уже не вызов системе и попытка найти настоящую эмоцию через абсурд и хаос, а очередная замена эмоций внутри выстроенного поп-культурного имиджа.

Зачем это всё и откуда растут ноги — выяснили в беседе с Семёном Уткиным, креативным директором агентства SMZV и исследователем моды при МГУ.



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Poverty chic или почему мы не рвём платье Ralph Lauren, но радостно покупаем уже рваное Balenciaga?

Богатство не должно выглядеть богатым. Наоборот, оно должно быть скрытым, абсурдным и доступным только тем, кто в курсе. Именно поэтому сейчас в моде дорогая одежда, которая выглядит рваной и поношенной.

Но появилась новая проблема: такие вещи перестали быть частью авангардного языка. Рваная футболка за тысячу долларов — это уже не вызов системе и попытка найти настоящую эмоцию через абсурд и хаос, а очередная замена эмоций внутри выстроенного поп-культурного имиджа.

Зачем это всё и откуда растут ноги — выяснили в беседе с Семёном Уткиным, креативным директором агентства SMZV и исследователем моды при МГУ.

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Telegram has gained a reputation as the “secure” communications app in the post-Soviet states, but whenever you make choices about your digital security, it’s important to start by asking yourself, “What exactly am I securing? And who am I securing it from?” These questions should inform your decisions about whether you are using the right tool or platform for your digital security needs. Telegram is certainly not the most secure messaging app on the market right now. Its security model requires users to place a great deal of trust in Telegram’s ability to protect user data. For some users, this may be good enough for now. For others, it may be wiser to move to a different platform for certain kinds of high-risk communications. In 2014, Pavel Durov fled the country after allies of the Kremlin took control of the social networking site most know just as VK. Russia's intelligence agency had asked Durov to turn over the data of anti-Kremlin protesters. Durov refused to do so. The company maintains that it cannot act against individual or group chats, which are “private amongst their participants,” but it will respond to requests in relation to sticker sets, channels and bots which are publicly available. During the invasion of Ukraine, Pavel Durov has wrestled with this issue a lot more prominently than he has before. Channels like Donbass Insider and Bellum Acta, as reported by Foreign Policy, started pumping out pro-Russian propaganda as the invasion began. So much so that the Ukrainian National Security and Defense Council issued a statement labeling which accounts are Russian-backed. Ukrainian officials, in potential violation of the Geneva Convention, have shared imagery of dead and captured Russian soldiers on the platform. That hurt tech stocks. For the past few weeks, the 10-year yield has traded between 1.72% and 2%, as traders moved into the bond for safety when Russia headlines were ugly—and out of it when headlines improved. Now, the yield is touching its pandemic-era high. If the yield breaks above that level, that could signal that it’s on a sustainable path higher. Higher long-dated bond yields make future profits less valuable—and many tech companies are valued on the basis of profits forecast for many years in the future. Messages are not fully encrypted by default. That means the company could, in theory, access the content of the messages, or be forced to hand over the data at the request of a government.
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